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waves

Revelation

By October 29, 2017 Surf more, Thoughts
Surfing at Fistral

Remember that surf goal I set myself at the beginning of the year? The one about consistently being able to drop into and ride shoulder high waves?

A few months ago after surf club I sat in Tubestation with the girls having a post-surf mortem and eating my woes away with cake. From what I remember I’d had a shit surf. The coaches had gone on about surf goals and I felt like mine was a massive mountain to climb. I didn’t know how to break it down into smaller achievable steps, my head wasn’t in a good place at the time and I was beating myself up massively.

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The next level

By August 18, 2015 Escape, Surf more
Photo courtesy of Checkered Photography

Photo courtesy of Checkered Photography

I think it’s fair to say that I have reached my comfort zone when it comes to surfing. I can catch waves, get to my feet (although not by the correct method) and ride the white water til the cows come home. I have fun, which is what it’s all about but I want to take my surfing to the next level and to do that I need some help.

I also want a different perspective. I think it’s great to mix things up a bit and you can learn so much from different people. I was keen to get the input from a female surfer who understands the issues that women surfers have especially with confidence.

For me there was no better person to do this than British pro surfer Corinne Evans.

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What makes a good surf?

By August 16, 2015 Escape, Surf more, Thoughts

What makes a good surf

I have just come back from an amazing week in Cornwall. Probably the best holiday I have ever had thanks to a combination of heaps of surfing, exploring new places, awesome eateries and some great weather!

I have never been able to surf so much in a week before. Usually we book a week and have these great ideas about how we will surf every day, and then the wave gods laugh at us and either present us with a sea of calm or shit onshore conditions and howling winds.

This time, they must have taken pity on us and decided we deserved a break. Four surfs in a row later and my arms are like noodles, my dodgy shoulder is sore, I’m knackered but my god I feel totally stoked!

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Pure stoke

By July 12, 2015 Escape
Processed with VSCOcam

An awesome surf at Saunton!

Two months away from surfing may not sound like a lot, yet in that relatively short space of time so much had happened that took my focus away from it. My husband had an operation, my mindset slid into a negative space, there were jobs to do on the house, the daily grind and then, when we did have a free weekend to get to the coast typically the surf went flat.

Long lost love

My feelings toward surfing became ambivalent for a while. I tried to kid myself that I wasn’t really that bothered about it anymore but deep down, I loved it more than ever. I spent my weeks pining after it…staring doe-eyed at the surf cams and various Instagram feeds of surfers that I follow – people who live by the coast and have surfing on tap. It made me feel worse.

I had also piled pressure on myself – to nail the pop-up, be surf fit, feel some kind of acceptance by the coastal surf dwellers and generally not look like some dumb kook. The pressure built to a point where I had lost my way and forgotten that it was supposed to be fun and not some time pressured competition.

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The biggest life lesson from surfing

By June 14, 2015 Thoughts

It's not what you do

 

I have read a lot of articles recently about life lessons that you can learn from surfing. Each one has a different take on it and it will vary from person to person, but one thing I haven’t come across and is the biggest thing that I have found is how much you learn about yourself.

I have discovered things about myself that I didn’t know existed. It has brought elements of my personality to the surface that looking back were probably there all along, but they just needed a little encouragement along the way.

Like my love of the water – despite the fact that I was never what would you call a water baby and not even daring to dip a toe in the sea until 5 years ago.

This love has always been there and water has a very calming influence on me, whether I’m taking a walk along the canal or just floating on my back in a swimming pool. I just love being near and in the water. I can stare at the sea for hours and feel hypnotised by its beauty and raw power. I have also been known to cry at the first sight of it when arriving in Devon or Cornwall. It takes my breath away, makes me feel exhilarated and I come to life when I’m surfing and am totally immersed in the ocean.

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