Remember that surf goal I set myself at the beginning of the year? The one about consistently being able to drop into and ride shoulder high waves?
A few months ago after surf club I sat in Tubestation with the girls having a post-surf mortem and eating my woes away with cake. From what I remember I’d had a shit surf. The coaches had gone on about surf goals and I felt like mine was a massive mountain to climb. I didn’t know how to break it down into smaller achievable steps, my head wasn’t in a good place at the time and I was beating myself up massively.
Then I had a revelation. It wasn’t so much about me reaching that goal. Because what had actually sparked the inspiration for it was a picture.
It was on Instagram. A girl riding a shoulder high wave on a longboard. So effortlessly and gracefully. It was the fact that she was on a longboard (which I just always assumed were only for 1-2ft days). It was also the size of the wave that captured my imagination. A wave size that scared me yet excited me at the same time.
That morning in Tubestation, I realised that it wasn’t really about the goal at all. I just wanted a picture of me riding a similar size wave.
Why? I guess for validation. For evidence. To prove to myself that I can do this and to get to where I want to with my surfing. And to look back on days when I’m struggling for motivation, or beating myself up and thinking I’m a shit surfer that I’m actually not a lost cause.
A few weeks ago, I got the picture I so badly wanted.
This picture speaks volume to me. It doesn’t convey to you guys what was going on in my head at the time and the emotions that were pouring through my veins. But everytime I look at it, I’m instantly transported back to that dreamy left at Fistral on a sunny Tuesday afternoon. A time where, in another life, I’d have been grinding away in an office instead of living my dreams…