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surf progress

The surfer’s journey

By September 29, 2017 Thoughts
The surfer's journey

Hello. It’s been a while…

Sadly the absence from blogging wasn’t due to me being super busy and scoring loads of waves. I lost my head for a while, jacked in the freelancing and did a lot of hiding away at home. My self esteem hit the floor and I felt pretty rubbish.

But I’m ok now. And although I didn’t feel like surfing at times, there were some occasions over the summer where I surfed the best waves of my life. My confidence has increased a lot, to the point where as long as I can physically get out back, I’ll have a go on some pretty hefty waves. I’ve made the effort to get out there, so why not push myself?

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