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Why I’m keeping a surf diary

By February 28, 2017 Surf more, Thoughts
Surf diary

When I was landlocked, I blogged about every surf I’d ever had out of sheer excitement…which was great at the time as it allowed me to feel more connected to surfing. It also fulfilled the original purpose of the blog – to track my surf progress (kinda like an online surf diary).

Now I surf a lot more and live closer to the coast, I don’t feel the need to shout every single time I hit the waves. It’s also probably a bit dull for you guys too, and not very exciting to hear about me wiping out in minuscule detail!

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My year in surfing

By December 28, 2014 Escape, Thoughts
Some of the surf highlights from this year - its been amazing!

Some of the surf highlights from this year – its been amazing!

Christmas is over for another year and it’s one of those in-between days…the lull before new year and a time when I reflect and look back on the year that is almost over.

In some respects, I have had an awful year after losing my dad very suddenly back in May. But when I think about the year that I have had in surfing, I can only describe it as epic! It’s been so much more than I ever could have imagined! Surfing has been the constant that has helped to bring some calm, balance, fun and extreme emotional high’s during a year when I have so badly needed it.

Things never work out the way you plan or envisage them, and in my first blog post of this year, I set myself some objectives – seven things I wanted to achieve during 2014. ‘Getting a go-pro’ and ‘getting a recent picture of me standing up riding a wave’ have both been ticked off, as has one of my key targets of ‘being able to stand up consistently.’ But the niggling shoulder injury that I suffered earlier on in the year put paid to me working on my pop-up.

It’s only now when I look back that I realise that the shoulder injury almost happened for a reason.

Because of that injury, I met surfabella and have since struck up a great friendship. I was also given some great advice from Biff at the Surfing Sumo, who, after reading the post about it on my blog, gave me the opportunity of the year – to write a regular piece for the website! I also went to Boardmasters for the first time as a result of the articles….the knock on effects have been amazing!

I also poured a lot more time into my blog and started sharing it around. Whilst I set myself a goal to ‘make more of the blog’, I never ever imagined meeting some of the truly amazing people that I have met this year and friendships that I have formed. The best surfs that I have had this year have been with the people I have met like Amy from Mellow Waves and Landlocked Surfer and his family. I have also met the amazing Dolly who has got to be surfing’s biggest fan!

But the shining star amongst the friends I have made is Kelly – a landlocked surfer, who, by coincidence, lives near me, surfs with the guys at Kingsurf and loves Mawgan Porth. To attend her wedding and share her special day has to be the highlight of the year. My first surfer wedding! We have become really good friends and I’m looking forward to surfing with her in the new just a few days time!

I have surfed with my cousin, surfed during the winter, been to Devon and Cornwall and surfed some new spots like Perran Sands, Putsborough and Saunton. I have had some brilliant advice and pointers which I have put into practise, and surfed with Pete from Kingsurf who was amazed at my progress despite being landlocked.

Above all, I have had a total blast! My best moments from this year have always undoubtedly involved surfing in some way.

I may not have been surfing quite as often as I wanted this year or managed the ‘pop-up’, but I’m proud of what I have achieved. Since the session where it ‘clicked’ back in March, I can stand up so much more consistently, and gradually, the move to get to my feet has got progressively quicker. Getting off my knees is going to be a hard habit to break but the training I’m doing will set the groundwork and I’m confident that I WILL manage to achieve it in 2015.

I’m not really setting a list of objectives for next year – the pop-up is really the one and and only goal. As for the rest, I’m just going to go with the flow and see what happens!

So I’m looking ahead to 2015 with massive amounts of stoke and optimism. If this year has taught me anything, it’s that you can achieve anything you set your mind to…if you want it enough. It’s also taught me to be grateful and make the most of absolutely every moment as life is so precious, as things can change in the blink of an eye.

I’m going to surf as often as possible in 2015, starting on 1st January…

…and I can’t think of a better way to start the new year than in the sea on my surfboard.

Happy new year!



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New year, new focus

By January 7, 2014 Thoughts
Winter surfing - am I brave enough?

Winter surfing – am I brave enough?

This time last year, surfing was definitely on my radar, but not to the same intensity as it is now. Looking back on what I achieved during 2013, it was far beyond what I imagined and it has only fuelled my desire to surf more and go from kook to accomplished surfer.

The New Year is a great time to set some new goals so in addition to setting some personal objectives, I have made a separate list specifically for surfing. It’s more of a list of what I want to achieve rather than resolutions. Here it is:

  • Be able to consistently stand up (not just a handful of times per session!)…then I will think about turning
  • Work on the pop up
  • Learn at least one thing about surfing everyday
  • Understand more about the conditions (tides, currents, winds and what effects these have on the surf)
  • Get a photo of me standing up riding a wave…the only one I have is 4 years old and rather grainy (it could be anyone!)
  • Get a GoPro or similar so I can record myself surfing
  • Get some more followers and expand the scope of the blog (to include interviews, case studies and multimedia elements

I’m hopeless in the winter. The dark nights and cold weather make me want to retreat into the comfort of my home, and with far fewer surf trips on the horizon, it’s easier to think, ‘oh I will leave all the exercise until nearer the spring when I will be surfing more.’ But that’s just not going to cut it.

I remember how exhausted I was after only half an hour during that first session last April….and I don’t want a repeat performance when I finally do get to the coast. To go all that way and be too knackered to continue after half an hour would be a huge waste of time and totally demotivating. It’s this thought, and the fact that I want to do everything possible during my landlocked days and weeks to make the first two items on my list more achievable.

It could be the difference between an average year of surfing, and an epic one!

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