I have read a lot of articles recently about life lessons that you can learn from surfing. Each one has a different take on it and it will vary from person to person, but one thing I haven’t come across and is the biggest thing that I have found is how much you learn about yourself.
I have discovered things about myself that I didn’t know existed. It has brought elements of my personality to the surface that looking back were probably there all along, but they just needed a little encouragement along the way.
Like my love of the water – despite the fact that I was never what would you call a water baby and not even daring to dip a toe in the sea until 5 years ago.
This love has always been there and water has a very calming influence on me, whether I’m taking a walk along the canal or just floating on my back in a swimming pool. I just love being near and in the water. I can stare at the sea for hours and feel hypnotised by its beauty and raw power. I have also been known to cry at the first sight of it when arriving in Devon or Cornwall. It takes my breath away, makes me feel exhilarated and I come to life when I’m surfing and am totally immersed in the ocean.