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improving surfer

Revelation

By October 29, 2017 Surf more, Thoughts
Surfing at Fistral

Remember that surf goal I set myself at the beginning of the year? The one about consistently being able to drop into and ride shoulder high waves?

A few months ago after surf club I sat in Tubestation with the girls having a post-surf mortem and eating my woes away with cake. From what I remember I’d had a shit surf. The coaches had gone on about surf goals and I felt like mine was a massive mountain to climb. I didn’t know how to break it down into smaller achievable steps, my head wasn’t in a good place at the time and I was beating myself up massively.

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Braving the line-up

By September 11, 2016 Surf more

Great Western Beach Newquay

The day after my first ever solo surf, I met up with Charlotte from Float Stories and her other half. We ummed and ahhed over surfing Fistral but it was a bit big so I suggested heading into Newquay bay for some smaller waves. Both Charlotte and I are self-confessed scaredy cats – comfortable out the back in about 2ft maximum but anything above that, forget it.

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Why I surfed 6 times in a week

By July 20, 2016 Surf more

Approaching lines at Watergate Bay

During the last week I racked up 6 surf sessions – the most I’ve ever surfed in a 7-day period. It’s been amazing and was all down to a chance conversation with my surfboard shaper.

I’d been feeling frustrated again with my inability to pop-up in a swift movement and my lack of confidence in going out back in anything over 2ft. I’ll have a lesson and come away stoked thinking I’ve nailed it, then I won’t surf again for another week or so. I lose the momentum and it feels like I’m back at the point I was pre-lesson.

And that’s exactly the problem. I’m just not surfing often enough.

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