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Fistral

What I achieved in surfing in 2017

By December 17, 2017 Surf more
What Ive achived in surfing in 2017

Wow 2017, you’ve been a good one…

At the start of the year I had a goal with my surfing. It was a long term aim and I soon realised that I’d been unrealistic with it. A bit like going from zero to 100, I wanted to get to where I wanted to be…within a year.

I’m finishing the year not having reached that goal. But by striving for it, I’ve struck gold with a fair few gems of achievement along the way.

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Revelation

By October 29, 2017 Surf more, Thoughts
Surfing at Fistral

Remember that surf goal I set myself at the beginning of the year? The one about consistently being able to drop into and ride shoulder high waves?

A few months ago after surf club I sat in Tubestation with the girls having a post-surf mortem and eating my woes away with cake. From what I remember I’d had a shit surf. The coaches had gone on about surf goals and I felt like mine was a massive mountain to climb. I didn’t know how to break it down into smaller achievable steps, my head wasn’t in a good place at the time and I was beating myself up massively.

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10 great things about my first week in Cornwall

By November 30, 2015 Love, Thoughts

Hello from the other side…

I have been a Cornish resident for a week now and already I feel at home, like I was always meant to be here. No pangs of homesickness or yearning for my former life.

I took the week off work to focus on unpacking, settling in, getting aquainted with the village where we’re living and get all the boring admin stuff out of the way that goes along with a house move.

It was also a perfect excuse to take some time out and relax after what has been a pretty stressful time.

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The next level

By August 18, 2015 Escape, Surf more
Photo courtesy of Checkered Photography

Photo courtesy of Checkered Photography

I think it’s fair to say that I have reached my comfort zone when it comes to surfing. I can catch waves, get to my feet (although not by the correct method) and ride the white water til the cows come home. I have fun, which is what it’s all about but I want to take my surfing to the next level and to do that I need some help.

I also want a different perspective. I think it’s great to mix things up a bit and you can learn so much from different people. I was keen to get the input from a female surfer who understands the issues that women surfers have especially with confidence.

For me there was no better person to do this than British pro surfer Corinne Evans.

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What makes a good surf?

By August 16, 2015 Escape, Surf more, Thoughts

What makes a good surf

I have just come back from an amazing week in Cornwall. Probably the best holiday I have ever had thanks to a combination of heaps of surfing, exploring new places, awesome eateries and some great weather!

I have never been able to surf so much in a week before. Usually we book a week and have these great ideas about how we will surf every day, and then the wave gods laugh at us and either present us with a sea of calm or shit onshore conditions and howling winds.

This time, they must have taken pity on us and decided we deserved a break. Four surfs in a row later and my arms are like noodles, my dodgy shoulder is sore, I’m knackered but my god I feel totally stoked!

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Blue book review

By July 25, 2014 Love
Blue by Lisa Glass

Blue by Lisa Glass

I was so excited to hear about this book in a recent copy of Surfgirl magazine. I have been on the look out for a while for a surf fiction book – thanks Lisa Glass for filling a much needed gap in the market!

Set against the backdrop of Fistral Beach in Cornwall, one of my favourite surf spots, Blue follows the story of Iris, a 16 year old surfer girl who meets chilled-out, gorgeous surf dude Zeke. But is Iris over her ex boyfriend Daniel and what is the story behind Zeke’s trip to Newquay? Queue a plot involving relationships, friendships and of course, plenty of surfing!

It’s an ideal book for reading on holiday and chilling out with post-surf. Its available on kindle and in paperback.

Loved it so much that I have read it twice in 2 weeks!

 

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Listen to the locals

By November 22, 2013 Escape, Surf more
A few weeks ago, we headed to Cornwall for what could be the last surf of the year…..unless we decide to meet winter head on during the dark cold months of November and December!

Fistral

Fistral

We delayed our trip by a couple of days to avoid the St Jude storm which threatened to batter much of England and Wales. The surf forecast was looking dangerous – 10 ft waves and howling winds and from talking to the locals during our stay, we did the right thing. Only a few, very brave (stupid?) headed out in such conditions and even during our stay, we heard reports of people getting caught in nasty rips and getting swept out – fortunately for them, they were rescued and safely returned to shore.

I was eager to try some new spots. Despite being told to check out Fistral, we headed to Watergate Bay just outside Newquay which, according to several surf guides, is supposed to be ok for beginners. First wave I caught, I was on my feet and riding it all the way in. Woohoo!! Couldn’t believe my luck and I thought I was in for a great session.

Unfortunately, what we didn’t take into account was the extremely strong rip that knocked us both of our feet with its power and ferocity. We were fighting a losing battle and so after an hour we called it quits. Disappointed but not gutted, we had the next day to get a good session in. This time, we listened to the people at the B&B where we stayed who advised us to try Harlyn Bay as it’s a sheltered spot – although the St Jude storm had passed, it was still pretty windy.

We arrived at Harlyn and it was lovely and sunny but, unexpectedly, apart from a lovely looking wave which was breaking so close to the beach, there was nothing to surf. We scratched our heads for a bit and headed back to Mawgan Porth to talk to Pete, the surf instructor to get his take on things. He advised us that Harlyn is ‘a bit gnarly’ and you have to catch it at the right time according to the tide. He also said that when it’s really windy, the best place to head for is Towan Beach in Newquay town which is the most sheltered of all the Newquay beaches. Great, although parking is a real problem and everyone else has the same idea when it’s messy everywhere else. We stopped at Lusty Glaze (a few beaches along from Towan) to check it out but quickly dismissed it when we saw the steep steps at right angles down to the beach – not practical when you have 2 minimals which takes 2 people to carry (one at the noses and one at the tails). By this time, I felt gutted at the thought of heading back home with only one bum surf session to show for it.

Eventually, we ended up at South Fistral which, although was still pretty heavy and had a bit of a rip, enabled us to get some much needed practise. Again, it wasn’t the greatest session (stand up count ration was way down) but it was great just being in the sea and to have surfed a new spot.

The moral of this tale:

  •  Do your homework in advance – read up about the break in advance on the internet or get yourself a surf guide book. Know when your preferred break works best, what the favoured conditions are and find out if its prone to rips
  •  Don’t head to the beach before you have checked what the surf is doing….or not in the case of our trip to Croyde a few weeks ago. Suited up, waxed up, we headed to the beach only to find it as flat as a millpond!
  •  Look before you head out. Im just starting to recognise what a rip looks like!
  • Talk to as many of the locals as possible – they know their local breaks better than everyone. Explain where you are at with your surfing and they can advise on the best breaks for your ability although bear in mind that some will differ in opinion
With less surfing happening over the winter, I need to set myself a new challenge….learn how to read the surf reports!

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