My mantra for 2015 is shamefully stolen from Nike, but there’s something about their ‘just do it’ slogan that is just so positive, forceful and purposeful – it means business! I have literally got the t-shirt but putting the words into action by not making excuses or procrastinating over things in 2015 is my main focus.
With this in mind, on new year’s eve, me and my other half travelled to Croyde to see in the new year in style.
It was cold, we were tired after the journey and it was a dull day. The last thing we really wanted to do was chuck ourselves in the sea but with the conditions looking to get progressively messier throughout the week, I made the decision to ‘just do it’ and I’m so glad I did!
Actions speak louder than words
We sought shelter at Putsborough, which we have only surfed at once before, and had a great session! The pop-up still eluded me but the core work I have been doing in the gym really paid off. I was turning and trimming across the wave and was amazed that the board was actually going where I wanted it to go. The key was to look where I was going (thanks Amy – that advice has stuck with me!) and almost throw my body round and use my arms to propel the movement. (I think secretly I was trying to mimic some of the girls on the ASP world tour – shame I haven’t been taking pop-up notes!).
My stamina has improved heaps thanks to all the cardio work I have been putting in and if it wasn’t for my weak arms, I could have lasted a lot longer. I had so much fun during the session and I was stoked with the progress!
I even bumped into an Instagram friend – I knew she was going to be in the Croyde area and recognised her instantly by her surfboard. I admit to hesitating before I approached her, but decided to ‘just do it’ and we had a lovely chat about surfing and our love of North Devon.
We ended 2014 on a high from the surfing, a lovely meal in the Blue Groove followed by a midnight walk on the beach.
Motivated by the previous day’s progress and feeling super positive on the first day of the year, we headed to Croyde beach to do a 2 minute beach clean – this is something I do on every surf trip and its my way of giving back when I am by the coast. We then headed into the village and who should be sitting outside Redwood Surf Shop? Local surf legend and Billabong XXL big wave award nominee Andrew Cotton! I had been wanting to meet for him for a while, say hi and tell him how awesome he is for riding giant waves. But, instead of ‘just doing it’, I hesitated, and assumed he wouldn’t want to be harassed by some kook surfer. By the time I plucked up the courage, he was in his car and driving away. I kicked myself for the rest of the day. Gutted!
Back on track
In the afternoon, we headed back to Putsborough for a new year’s day surf. It was messier than the previous day, much colder and I was knackered from a disturbed night’s sleep, but I knew I would regret not surfing. So, I suited up and headed in.
Glad again that I did! It wasnt quite as good as the previous day but the consistency was still there as was the turning and the trimming. We hadn’t been in long and it started to rain – neither of us had ever surfed in the rain before and it was a bit of a wish of ours. There was something so exhilarating and refreshing about it – totally surrounded by water.
I had a fantastic time in Devon and it was a brilliant way to spend the new year. It was only a very short stay but it wasn’t over – we still had an overnight stay in Cornwall to look forward to!