It was another 2 years before I would attempt to surf again. I thought it was one of those things I could only do on holiday and never once stopped to consider that geography was not a barrier.
2 years on…
We had also made new friends since the last surf trip and Jay also shared our interest in surfing. Having attempted to surf himself, he was keen to go again and suggested that we do a day trip.
The chosen destination was Croyde – a place that all 4 of us love. It’s a 3 ½ hour trip from Wolverhampton but we were so excited to be going surfing again, that the journey just didn’t seem a problem. Everyone we spoke to about it thought we were crazy for going all that way and back again in one day.
At 5.30 am in the morning when Jem and Jay arrived to pick us up, I wondered how on earth I was going to muster any energy. But the further along the M5 we got, the brighter the sky became and by the time we reached Braunton, the sun was shining and the adrenaline had kicked in.
Armed with boards and some pretty tatty wetsuits (at that point I promised to buy my own if I kept it up), we headed into the sea. It was July and so the water temperature was just about at its peak – lucky really, I think all of us had holes in our wetsuits!
After numerous attempts, I had failed to stand up. I think I had been totally naïve that one lesson 2 years previously was going to equip me for standing up. I even blamed the board from the hire shop! But, you can’t blame the tools, it’s up to the person operating them.
I also realised how totally unfit I was. After what seemed like only half an hour in the sea, I was totally knackered. I had no upper body strength at all and so no chance of being able to push myself up on the board.
I had a brilliant day but it had given me a reality check. Time to get fit!