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Revelation

By October 29, 2017 Surf more, Thoughts
Surfing at Fistral

Remember that surf goal I set myself at the beginning of the year? The one about consistently being able to drop into and ride shoulder high waves?

A few months ago after surf club I sat in Tubestation with the girls having a post-surf mortem and eating my woes away with cake. From what I remember I’d had a shit surf. The coaches had gone on about surf goals and I felt like mine was a massive mountain to climb. I didn’t know how to break it down into smaller achievable steps, my head wasn’t in a good place at the time and I was beating myself up massively.

Then I had a revelation. It wasn’t so much about me reaching that goal. Because what had actually sparked the inspiration for it was a picture.

It was on Instagram. A girl riding a shoulder high wave on a longboard. So effortlessly and gracefully. It was the fact that she was on a longboard (which I just always assumed were only for 1-2ft days). It was also the size of the wave that captured my imagination. A wave size that scared me yet excited me at the same time.

That morning in Tubestation, I realised that it wasn’t really about the goal at all. I just wanted a picture of me riding a similar size wave.

Why? I guess for validation. For evidence. To prove to myself that I can do this and to get to where I want to with my surfing. And to look back on days when I’m struggling for motivation, or beating myself up and thinking I’m a shit surfer that I’m actually not a lost cause.

A few weeks ago, I got the picture I so badly wanted.

This picture speaks volume to me. It doesn’t convey to you guys what was going on in my head at the time and the emotions that were pouring through my veins. But everytime I look at it, I’m instantly transported back to that dreamy left at Fistral on a sunny Tuesday afternoon. A time where, in another life, I’d have been grinding away in an office instead of living my dreams…

 

 

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My week with Surf Sistas

By October 10, 2017 Surf more, Thoughts
Wave hunting

At the start of the year, I explored ways in which I could work more actively towards my surf goals. I’d only ever had one off surf lessons and loved the idea of doing something more intensive. I didn’t have the money for an overseas surf trip, and as I mainly surf in Cornwall anyway, a week on Surf Sistas ‘white to green’ course sounded ideal.

I’m willing to bet that when anyone envisages a week’s surf trip, it’s filled with clean, perfect sized waves, sunny blue skies and warm days. That’s exactly how I imagined my week with Surf Sistas.

Yet despite the fact that Hurricane Irma had other plans (think blown out, massive waves and unsurfable beaches), we actually scored on all of the above (with maybe the exception of warmth!). But what I didn’t envisage was how much more I got out of that week – rainbows, secret (and new) surf spots, boat trips, wavehunting, friendship and some really good times!

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The other side of fear

By June 17, 2017 Surf more
The other side of fear

5 weeks of Polzeath Ladies Surf Club has flown by and Tuesday’s session marked the end of the first phase. Looking back, I can see just how much I’ve achieved in a relatively short space of time.

5 weeks ago I couldn’t pop up properly. Years of bad habits meant I’d repeatedly gone to my knees and I wrote myself off as a lost cause. But thanks to a supportive environment, fantastic coaching and some perseverance, I’ve nailed it!

So on Tuesday I wanted to focus on the next step and another big hurdle – paddling out back. Now I’d corrected my pop-up, it was time to venture back into the lineup and have a go at taking off on unbroken waves. George had mentioned it a couple of weeks ago and I couldn’t wait.

Except when it came down to it, I was scared shitless. Which was weird, considering I’ve paddled out back numerous times before.

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Polzeath Ladies Surf Club

By May 25, 2017 Surf more
Polzeath Ladies Surf Club

Ever since I moved to Cornwall, I’ve wanted to join a weekly surf club. Primarily to progress my surfing, but also to meet some more likeminded ladies. I hadn’t found anything suitable and I’d pretty much given up on the idea…

Thankfully, Polzeath Ladies Surf Club came along at just the right time.

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How to get your surf stoke back

By March 26, 2017 Surf more, Thoughts
How to get your surf stoke back

I guess it was bound to happen sooner or later because everyone loses their surf stoke at some point…right? Or is it just me?

That’s right folks. I’ve well and truly lost my surf mojo. It’s taken a hike and it’s somewhere in the wilderness.

After a great start to the year, getting back into a fitness programme and going on about my winter surf goals, my stoke just woke up one day and said ‘nah..can’t be bothered with this anymore.’

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Why I’m keeping a surf diary

By February 28, 2017 Surf more, Thoughts
Surf diary

When I was landlocked, I blogged about every surf I’d ever had out of sheer excitement…which was great at the time as it allowed me to feel more connected to surfing. It also fulfilled the original purpose of the blog – to track my surf progress (kinda like an online surf diary).

Now I surf a lot more and live closer to the coast, I don’t feel the need to shout every single time I hit the waves. It’s also probably a bit dull for you guys too, and not very exciting to hear about me wiping out in minuscule detail!

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Winter surf goals

By October 14, 2016 Surf more, Thoughts
Watergate Bay in October

I feel like I’m on the cusp of change which is pretty appropriate given the time of year and the change of seasons. It’s a good opportunity to set some new goals and intentions, and do things a bit differently to how I usually approach winter (which is hibernate!)

It’s the end of a busy season here and my summer job will soon come to an end. Luckily I’m fixed up with some winter work which will free up my daytimes to focus on my freelance work and surf!

So far Autumn’s produced some fantastic surf and it’s an incredible time of year to be in Cornwall. The line-up’s so much quieter, the weather’s still relatively warm and with a pretty focused surf goal in my mind, I’m fired up to get in as much as possible.

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Braving the line-up

By September 11, 2016 Surf more

Great Western Beach Newquay

The day after my first ever solo surf, I met up with Charlotte from Float Stories and her other half. We ummed and ahhed over surfing Fistral but it was a bit big so I suggested heading into Newquay bay for some smaller waves. Both Charlotte and I are self-confessed scaredy cats – comfortable out the back in about 2ft maximum but anything above that, forget it.

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Flying solo

By September 8, 2016 Surf more, Thoughts

September swell at Watergate Bay

For ages I’ve had this ‘thing’ about surfing alone. Not an ‘I love it’ thing, but a total mental block.

I’ll check the forecast, see good waves and think “right, I’ll go for a surf”…and that’s as far as it goes. It’s like I’m stuck to the chair or there’s an invisible shield that prevents from leaving the house.

Typical fear reaction!

I’ve spoken to people about it and tried to work out why I feel so scared. I thought it was primarily fear of getting stuck in a rip and not trusting myself to get out of difficulty, but on lifeguarded beaches that should be far from my mind.

Then during a conversation this week, it really hit me (or maybe I just didn’t want to admit it until that point) – I’m totally self-conscious.

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Corinne’s Surf Tour: Newquay

By August 14, 2016 Surf more

Corinnes Surf Tour Newquay

One of the things I love about Corinne’s Surf Tour days is that each one is a unique experience. New surf spot, fab new ladies to meet, new surf stories to share, different conditions and a chance to focus on a different aspect of my surfing.

Yet last week’s surf and yoga day had some familiarities for me – I surfed one of my home town breaks and met up with some familiar faces!

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