I’ve wasted a lot of time putting far too much pressure on my surfing. Wanting to progress and taking it all too seriously. Surfing when I don’t feel like it, trying too many different things, listening to lots of people and then getting totally overwhelmed and not knowing what to do for the best.
The one person I should have listened to most in all of this, is me.
My friend Kelly’s always telling me to do what feels good. It’s a simple concept and inevitably brings more fun and joy than doing things under tension.
It’s time to let go, have fun and stop trying to progress.