The surf’s been pretty junk just lately. Unusually long small/flat spells, especially for Spring, coupled with localised wind swell means there’s not been many opportunities to catch anything remotely resembling a wave. But that all depends on what board you ride.
With my longboard in storage until recently and me being pretty desperate to just get in the sea and paddle around, I jumped at the chance to borrow an 8ft foamie from a friend of a friend. It’s been 3 years since I rode a foam board – not because I’m a board snob or anything but purely as I’ve had my own mal and been focusing on consistency. I couldn’t justify the additional rental fee of taking a foamie out either, otherwise I think they’re a fantastic option for getting back to basics, having fun and catching wave after wave on small days when the shortboarders are sitting out back without catching anything (and probably secretly envying the wave magnet foamie crew)!
1-2ft wind chop with a 5 second swell interview meant it wasn’t ever going to be a great surf but I caught and rode waves – something that just wouldn’t have happened on my mal in those conditions.
Worth getting in for? Absolutely! Why miss out on waves when all you have to do is grab a bigger board, get out there and have some fun!