During the last week I racked up 6 surf sessions – the most I’ve ever surfed in a 7-day period. It’s been amazing and was all down to a chance conversation with my surfboard shaper.
I’d been feeling frustrated again with my inability to pop-up in a swift movement and my lack of confidence in going out back in anything over 2ft. I’ll have a lesson and come away stoked thinking I’ve nailed it, then I won’t surf again for another week or so. I lose the momentum and it feels like I’m back at the point I was pre-lesson.
And that’s exactly the problem. I’m just not surfing often enough.