A couple of weeks ago, I had an unexpected opportunity to go surfing…so I took it!
It had been 10 weeks since my last surf session and a lot had happened in between, including a death in the family. The motivation had slipped and I had all but stopped going to the gym so I wasn’t expecting great things, but the main thing for me was to give winter surfing a go, and just to be out in the sea again. Fortunately, the recent storms had passed, and the surf forecasts were predicting more beginner friendly 2-3 ft waves.
So, on a gloriously sunny Saturday afternoon, I ventured out fully kitted in my winter suit (the first chance I had to properly test it all out). With sea temperatures of 10 degrees, and air temperatures of around the same, it was a very mild day. The kit stood up to the test and I was cosy and warm.
But after only about half an hour, I was knackered. My arms felt like spaghetti and I was out of breath. I think I maybe stood up once but it was such a fumbled attempt. After that, I felt like I was fighting a losing battle with the usual rip current that always seemed prevalent when I surfed at Croyde.
Disappointed, I got out and called it a day. I decided not to surf the next day because honestly, the thought of getting into all that cold wet gear didn’t appeal (yes, Im a wuss!). Instead I took the opportunity to help the Croyde Bay Surf Club with their beach clean, to clear up the debris left behind after the Hercules storm. I had wanted to do a beach clean for a while, so it was my chance to give something back and help out at a beach I had surfed at so many times during the past year. The turnout was fantastic and I felt great for having taken part.
Later that day, back in my landlocked home I made a few resolutions:
Get back into a proper routine at the gym incorporating weights and core. I have started researching a surf specific programme and have enlisted the help of a fellow surfer who is helping to put something together for me….excited!
Practise my pop-up on dry land. I have never really followed any kind of technique….some say this is a good thing, others say it’s bad. I know the method I would like to use (the army crawl), so I aim to try and perfect this at home – it really helped my hubby and Im ashamed to admit it, I was too set in my ways to give it a go
Let the hard work commence!