I’ve wasted a lot of time putting far too much pressure on my surfing. Wanting to progress and taking it all too seriously. Surfing when I don’t feel like it, trying too many different things, listening to lots of people and then getting totally overwhelmed and not knowing what to do for the best.
The one person I should have listened to most in all of this, is me.
My friend Kelly’s always telling me to do what feels good. It’s a simple concept and inevitably brings more fun and joy than doing things under tension.
It’s time to let go, have fun and stop trying to progress.
Yep. The title of this post pretty much sums up where I’m at with my surfing right now, and I can’t help feeling disappointed.
The fact that I’ve got back onto my minimal after months of surfing my longboard hasn’t helped. It’s harder to paddle and I have to sit further inside to catch anything – I much prefer getting into the wave early. My upper body strength still sucks and, understandably, going back down in board size is bound to take some getting used to. So my wave count is a lot less.
But there’s one thing that’s really affecting my lack of waves and it’s something that I can totally control. My mindset.
Wow 2017, you’ve been a good one…
At the start of the year I had a goal with my surfing. It was a long term aim and I soon realised that I’d been unrealistic with it. A bit like going from zero to 100, I wanted to get to where I wanted to be…within a year.
I’m finishing the year not having reached that goal. But by striving for it, I’ve struck gold with a fair few gems of achievement along the way.
Remember that surf goal I set myself at the beginning of the year? The one about consistently being able to drop into and ride shoulder high waves?
A few months ago after surf club I sat in Tubestation with the girls having a post-surf mortem and eating my woes away with cake. From what I remember I’d had a shit surf. The coaches had gone on about surf goals and I felt like mine was a massive mountain to climb. I didn’t know how to break it down into smaller achievable steps, my head wasn’t in a good place at the time and I was beating myself up massively.
At the start of the year, I explored ways in which I could work more actively towards my surf goals. I’d only ever had one off surf lessons and loved the idea of doing something more intensive. I didn’t have the money for an overseas surf trip, and as I mainly surf in Cornwall anyway, a week on Surf Sistas ‘white to green’ course sounded ideal.
I’m willing to bet that when anyone envisages a week’s surf trip, it’s filled with clean, perfect sized waves, sunny blue skies and warm days. That’s exactly how I imagined my week with Surf Sistas.
Yet despite the fact that Hurricane Irma had other plans (think blown out, massive waves and unsurfable beaches), we actually scored on all of the above (with maybe the exception of warmth!). But what I didn’t envisage was how much more I got out of that week – rainbows, secret (and new) surf spots, boat trips, wavehunting, friendship and some really good times!
Hello. It’s been a while…
Sadly the absence from blogging wasn’t due to me being super busy and scoring loads of waves. I lost my head for a while, jacked in the freelancing and did a lot of hiding away at home. My self esteem hit the floor and I felt pretty rubbish.
But I’m ok now. And although I didn’t feel like surfing at times, there were some occasions over the summer where I surfed the best waves of my life. My confidence has increased a lot, to the point where as long as I can physically get out back, I’ll have a go on some pretty hefty waves. I’ve made the effort to get out there, so why not push myself?
5 weeks of Polzeath Ladies Surf Club has flown by and Tuesday’s session marked the end of the first phase. Looking back, I can see just how much I’ve achieved in a relatively short space of time.
5 weeks ago I couldn’t pop up properly. Years of bad habits meant I’d repeatedly gone to my knees and I wrote myself off as a lost cause. But thanks to a supportive environment, fantastic coaching and some perseverance, I’ve nailed it!
So on Tuesday I wanted to focus on the next step and another big hurdle – paddling out back. Now I’d corrected my pop-up, it was time to venture back into the lineup and have a go at taking off on unbroken waves. George had mentioned it a couple of weeks ago and I couldn’t wait.
Except when it came down to it, I was scared shitless. Which was weird, considering I’ve paddled out back numerous times before.
Ever since I moved to Cornwall, I’ve wanted to join a weekly surf club. Primarily to progress my surfing, but also to meet some more likeminded ladies. I hadn’t found anything suitable and I’d pretty much given up on the idea…
Thankfully, Polzeath Ladies Surf Club came along at just the right time.
April’s been a busy month! I’ve had a lot of client work on which is fantastic, especially as I’m still in the early days of building up my freelance content writing and copywriting business. I’m stoked with the response so far, and to be working with some lovely clients!
Building up a business means putting in the extra hours and days but I took a week off to coincide with my mum’s visit. Lack of time beforehand meant that I still hadn’t managed a surf and wasn’t massively feeling it. So I went with the flow and turned my attention to another love of mine – walking.
I guess it was bound to happen sooner or later because everyone loses their surf stoke at some point…right? Or is it just me?
That’s right folks. I’ve well and truly lost my surf mojo. It’s taken a hike and it’s somewhere in the wilderness.
After a great start to the year, getting back into a fitness programme and going on about my winter surf goals, my stoke just woke up one day and said ‘nah..can’t be bothered with this anymore.’